Lakeside Pottery Studio is a ceramic studio and a restoration facility. We are often asked for advice and archived some of the common questions and answers below. For more detailed ceramic, pottery and sculpture repair lessons visit here.
Questions - Click on question # to get the answer
Question 1: How can I determine my broken pottery's value prior to investing in repair? How will the repair effect it's value?
Question 2: How will the repair effect the restored it's value?
Question 3: How will I found out how the value and how old is my ancient pottery or sculpture or if it is authentic? Items such as Han Dynasty, Tang Dynasty, Pre-Columbian, Israelite, Roman, Egyptian, Moche and Mayan Pottery, etc.
Question 4: How do I fix broken, bowl, broken vase, broken figurine?
Question 5: When do you use epoxy or a super glue?
Question 6: What is the best glue for repairing ceramics or pottery?
Question 7: What do I when my china, ceramics or pottery precious item get broken?
Question 8: How can I detect old ceramic sculpture, vessel or figurine repairs?
Question 9: How to I choose the right professional to restore my precious broken item?
Question 10: Can I use nail polish and nails materials to repair ceramic or china?
Question 11: I have a Homer Laughlin antique cup and saucer I wanted to hang on the wall. What "glue" will work to affix the cup to the saucer and hang it, or would it even be safe?
Question 12: I have stoneware dish that has a small chip at the rim. If I did repair it with 2-part epoxy would it still be okay in the oven?
Question 13: Can hairline crack be repaired without taking the break line apart?
Question 14: How can I identify the marking on my antique ceramic or china vessel or figurine?
Question 15: Can I use epoxies, glues or any other restoration materials such as fillers, paints and cold glaze, with my kitchen ware for a seamless or Kintsugi repair?
Question 16: Are repaired / restored ceramic or china vessels as durable and pristine as before it broke?
Question 17: Can I store restored ceramic or stone object in a basement or an attic?
Question 18: Would it be possible to repair hair line cracks and a small hole in a china sink?
Question 19: How should my valuable ceramic or china be stored?
Question 20: If I choose the "Glue only" or "Glue and fill" repair options, can I later upgrade the repair to Best Level and what is the down side if I choose so?
Question 21: Should I repair my Bronze Sculpture? Is that Bronze?
Question 22: Why hiding repair lines cost can vary from project to project?
Question 23: Can a sculpture base enhance my sculpture and where can I get one or mount it?
Question 24: How to remove stains from old pottery, ceramic or china? Is crazed or crackled glaze on pottery food safe?
Question 25: Using Dap, silicone adhesive made by Dow-Corning (or equivalent) is nontoxic, its clear and strong and withstand boiling temperature or greater so why it is a bad idea in some cases?
Question 26: How can the repair line disappear after repair?
Question 27: Where to I go for projects that require gilding?
Question 28: How to decide if I or a professional repair my broken vessel?
Question 29:Why often we do not repair items that have decal / transfer painting?
Question 30:Does Lakeside Pottery do Kintsugi repair and if yes, how is it done?
Question 31:What is the difference between Urushi lacquer and epoxy / synthetic resins in a Kintsugi making process?
ANSWERS:
Question 1: How can I determine my broken pottery's value prior to investing in repair?
Answer 1: If you intend to repair your pottery, you will definitely want to have a better idea of it's value. We recommend that you consult a professional appraiser. Lakeside Pottery Studio is affiliated with Emerald Art Services which is highly qualified to assist you: See link for more about Emerald Art Services
Question 2: How will the repair effect the restored it's value?
Answer 2: Generally, with ceramic products or sculpture that are widely available, restored items will be reduced in value to some ratio depending on the extend of damage and the quality of the repair. However, with items that are harder to come by and are older, the repair and restoration will have less impact on the value assuming it is restored properly.
Question 3: How will I found out the value and how old is my ancient pottery or sculpture or if it is authentic? Items such as Han Dynasty, Tang Dynasty, Pre-Columbian, Israelite, Roman, Egyptian, Moche and Mayan Pottery, etc.
Answer 3:Artemis Testing Lab is the only US-based company that offers comprehensive authentication services using Thermoluminescence (TL), X-Ray fluorescence (XRF) and traditional X-Ray testing methods. Headed by Serge Fayeulle, PhD, Artemis Testing Lab provides expert testing / analysis to distinguish between genuine and fake ancient / ethnographic art. Results are guaranteed and can be delivered within as little as a few days.
Oxford Authentication has been leading the field in authenticating pottery, ceramics, porcelain, stoneware and bronze since 1997. It is located in England and antiquity authentication by TL testing is carried out in Oxfordshire laboratory. They have a worldwide network of accredited agents, authorized by them to collect samples from your antiquities. You can send your items to them for TL sampling from anywhere in the world or use their TL sampling agents in: UK, USA, China, Hong Kong, Thailand, Singapore, Japan, South Korea, Austria, Switzerland, Israel, Belgium, The Netherlands, Germany, France and Sweden
TL is short for "Thermoluminescence test" which is scientific method of calculating the age of antiques. It was developed in the 1960s at Oxford University in England. Technically a small sample is taken from the object and heated up in a laboratory.
Question 4: How do I fix broken, bowl, broken vase, broken figurine?
Answer 4: Lakeside Pottery prepared sever repair lessons that can be seen in the link below:
Question 5: When do you use epoxy or a super glue?
Answer 5: Lakeside Pottery Does not use super glues for ceramic repair and restoration super glues are just not strong and durable enough. In most of our ceramic restoration, we invest significant effort in hiding the repair and therefore have to make sure the mending longevity is the best possible. We use high-end 5 minute clear epoxies (see link for the brand we do use) in most ceramic repair applications. Super glues are probably a good choice for items that are not handled often without long life expectations. More details on this topic.
Question 7: What do I when my china, ceramics or pottery precious item get broken?
Answer 7: Collect all the pieces, check for chips or fragments that may be missing and try to find them too. Be careful where you step to avoid further damaging broken pieces. Shine a flashlight parallel to the floor surface which will show the smallest particles on the floor. Sweep the floor get all the pieces. Do not worry about "sand like" fragments. We may not end up using all those tiny pieces but let the restorer decide which pieces to use or not. Protect pieces so that they will not rub against each other. Wrap each individual piece in paper, towel or bobble wrap so that they don't come in contact with each other. Place all small pieces in a zip lock bag. Place all the wrapped pieces and put it all into a box (place the larger parts in the box first) to keep it all together and protected until you are ready to drop or ship to a restorer. Back to index
Question 8: How can I detect old ceramic sculpture, vessel or figurine repairs?
Answer 8: There are several senses and techniques at work when searching for a repair done on ceramic or stone objects. We use methods 1 to 3 below.
1) Touch: a) The smallest surface textures change can be felt if trained to feel it b) The smallest temperature transfer from the object to the fingers' tips can be also felt. Fired glaze and cold glaze / fillers have different temperature transfer attributes and therefore can be felt.
2) Sound: Tapping on a plate for example will generate different sounds if the plate was never broken compared to a broken plate that was repaired. This applies to larger breaks.
3) Visual: a) the smallest surface continuity change will reflect light differently if inspecting the object in many angles in direct light. High wattage spot light or sun light works the best if you do not have Black light. Black or UV light will highlight these surface changes clearer. b) Visually inspecting the color and design details looking for color and brush strokes differences, airbrush tapering, etc.
4) Surface resistance: "Cold glazes" will scratch and fired glazes will not. If desperate, use a pin and run it across the surfaces. The problem with this method is that if you do find a repair, you damaged it with a scratch.
5) Chemicals: All "cold glazes" will get "sticky" when Acetone, for example, is rubbed on. Again, the problem here is that when you do find a repair, it will be damaged.
As restoration technology advances, it is harder to detect repairs and some dealers or collectors may not be able to detect it. We decided that morally, working with resellers may enable them to mislead the buyers. Therefore, the only dealers we work with are local and proven to state in the items tag "Repaired" or "Restored". Back to index
Question 9: How to I choose the right professional to restore my precious broken item?
Answer 9:Before engaging the services, consider the following: - See "before and after" pictures of their work
- Ask if it is possible to talk with satisfied customers
- Check online reviews in places where the reviewer identity is revealed (e.g., Google Reviews, Angie's List)
- Call / email and ask what is their process and what makes them a good choice
- Get a quote and lead time before start of work. If the item requires shipment, provide the restorer all they need to quote without physically seeing the broken item (pictures, description). Once item is shipped, it is much harder to change your mind if the quote is too high for your budget after you have invested time in packing and shipping.
- Require itemized description of what will be done (e.g., removing old glue, cementing, making new missing pieces, materials used, will the inside or the bottom of the item repair be hidden, etc.)
- Verify that the restorer is insured for loss, theft, damage (fire, flood)
- Ask for restored item care once completed
- Verify if their work is guaranteed
- Do not pay in full up front. Keep at least 50% of cost due at work completion. Do not pay balance until you have seen the completed work in person or by email picture.
- Lastly, call and speak to a person. Use your instincts sensing if they are pleasant, good communicators, confidant, good listeners and passionate about their work. Back to index
Question 10: Can I use nail polish and nails materials to repair ceramic or china?
Answer 10: Proper restoration takes into account repair longevity. Nail art materials do not take into account what the materials used will look like years or generations later: Yellowing or fading with time, becoming more brittle with time, expansion and reduction with temperature and humidity changes (yielding cracks and becoming more fragile), interaction with the environment, strength, etc. We see items as such regularly having to be redone. Back to index
Question 11: I have a Homer Laughlin antique cup and saucer I wanted to hang on the wall. What "glue" will work to affix the cup to the saucer and hang it, or would it even be safe?
Answer 11: Make sure the surface is clean and a bit rough (sandpaper). Be generous with the glue and wait 3-4 days before you hang it. We recommend the 5-minutes Epoxy in this link. Back to index
Question 12: I have stoneware dish that has a small chip at the rim. If I did repair it with 2-part epoxy would it still be okay in the oven?
Answer 12: Epoxy is not food safe and will come apart at around 200 degree F so cooking with it is not a good idea.
Question 13: Can hairline crack be repaired without taking the break line apart?
Answer 13: Yes. We do it on a regular basis using the "peg" technique which is described in details in this link or a more complex process using liquid epoxy (e.g., UV cure process, high temperature) Back to index
Question 14: How can I identify the marking on my antique ceramic or china vessel or figurine?
Question 15: Can I use epoxies, glues or any other restoration materials such as fillers, paints and cold glaze, with my kitchen ware?
Answer 15:As far as I know, no restoration materials such as epoxies (non-silicon**), fillers, paints, or cold glazes, have been tested for food safety. Therefore, ceramic restoration materials arenot food safe, liquid or heat proof (over 190 degree F), thus, repaired items, including Kintsugi applications, should not be used on cooking or food serving ware. We are in touch with the restoration industry materials leaders and no food safe epoxies or cold glazes are available at this time.
There are some temperature resistsnt epoxies (not food safe) that can withstand over 400 degree F - see PC-Fahrenheit or JB Weld that we have used successfully in the past.
Restored items should also not be washed, not to be used with liquids and not be used with food; food acids or salt may effect the subsequent layers of restoration (e.g., filler, paints, cold glaze or Kintsugi materials).. If cleaning is required, you can use damp soft cloth applied gently without scrubbing. Avoid direct sun to prevent colors from fading. See link for care instructions for repaired item.
** Silicon adhesives have weaker bond and will not bond to subsequent layer such as fillers, paints, glaze or laquer.
Question 16 Are repaired / restored ceramic or china vessels as durable and pristine as before it broke?
Answer 16:Yes and no. Depending on the restorer's process, materials and instrumentations used, the repaired item could be as strong and durable as before the damage. For example, to insure durability, Lakeside Pottery use brass and stainless steel pins and pegs in vulnerable areas (e.g., fingers, arms, handles) and uses the best epoxies available rated to about 4,000 PSI shear strength and cured in optimum temperatures at 140 degree F oven. As far as environmental effects on the repair, the currently available "cold glazes" are no match to fired ceramic but the technology continues to improve. The areas of environment vulnerability are: Corrosion (e.g., lemon, acids, salt, detergents, alcohol, strong pigments such as coffee), liquids, freezing, heat, friction (e.g., cleaning, scrubbing), UV light (e.g., sun). It is recommended that the repaired items not be subjected to liquids, food, scrubbing, temperature above 200 degree F. or continuous sunlight exposure. Our restored items can get wet with water and the "cold glazes" could be "soft scrubbed" but if done frequently, the restoration will eventually start degrading. Sun or UV light will, with time, fade the restored colors just as if you left a painting, a fabric or furniture in the sun for long periods. All the materials Lakeside Pottery use are with the highest UV resist rating but none are 100% resistant for indefinite exposure, thus, if you wish for your restored item to last for generations, avoid direct sun or near florescent light placement. Back to index
Question 17: Can I store restored ceramic or stone object in a basement or an attic?
Answer 17:Yes and no. Restoration materials can be effected by liquids / moisture and high temperature. If the restored item is stored in a basement, make sure the basement environment is not too humid / wet. If it is, make sure it is sealed (e.g. zip lock bag). In hot climates, it is not unusual for attics to approach 200 degree F in a hot day. Most epoxies, fillers and cold glaze start to fail at 180 - 200 degree by getting softer and therefore cemented parts could start shifting and other failures. Back to index
Question 18: Would it be possible to repair hair line cracks and a small hole in a china sink?
Answer 18:No, unless you are able to separate the crack to let epoxy get in after the crack's inner walls are cleaned with alcohol and dried thoroughly. If the epoxy and the sink are heated up to 120-140 degree F, the epoxy will get thinner and most likely penetrate in between the cracks (note that cure time will be reduced dramatically once heated). Constant wetness will eventually fatigue the epoxy and the seal will fail; perhaps a couple of years later depending how frequently is gets wet. Drying the sink after each use will preserve the repair for longer. Back to index
Question 19: How should my valuable ceramic or china be stored?
Answer 19:Use porous wrapping (e.g., paper, cloth). Don't use plastic or bubble wrap to store ceramics. Humidity and heat can cause permanent discolorations. Back to index
Question 20: If I choose the "Glue only" or "Glue and fill" repair options, can I later upgrade the repair to Best Level and what is the down side if I choose so?
Answer 20:Yes, it could be upgraded later. Note however, that if the epoxies are exposed to UV light for a long duration, the repair lines and fillers might yellow with time. If choosing Best or Mid level repair, the coloring / painting / glazing processes will protect the epoxies from UV exposure (e.g., day light, florescent light), thus, will become much more "yellowing resist" even when exposed to direct sun. Back to index
Question 21: Should I repair my Bronze Sculpture? Is that Bronze?
Answer 21:Research as much information on the sculpture and the artist before considering repairing your sculpture. The sculpture’s value is determined by the artist, who made the piece, was it cast posthumously and who owned it. Then find out what metal was used to make the sculpture. Most metal sculptures that come to us are made of Bronze or Spelter ..... More. Back to index
Question 22: Why hiding repair lines cost can vary from project to project?
Answer 22: See this link for the principles of painting and glazing repaired pottery or china with examples. Back to index
Question 23: Can a sculpture base enhance my sculpture and where can I get one or mount it?
Answer 23: The best way to go a bout replacing or adding a sculpture base is to purchase it. We do not make them. The Base Shop is a great resource for a sculpture base made of wood, stone or stone / wood combination. You can purchase a base from them, mount it yourself or ask us to do it for you. The Base Shop offer sculpture bases and pedestals. You may choose custom made or available stock made with stone or wood to enhance your sculpture. Back to index
Question 24: How can a dark crazing lines and stains be removed from porcelain and pottery?
Answer 24: Yes, in some cases. See complete tutorial in this link.
Question 25: Using Dap, silicone adhesive made by Dow-Corning is nontoxic, its clear and strong and withstand boiling temperature or greater so why it is a bad idea in some cases?
Answer 25: We had several items that came to us to implement proper seamless restoration where Dow-Corning Dap adhesive was used previously. It will hold well as long as hiding the repair lines is not required. Dow-Corning Dap adhesive is not sandable or paintable. Therefore, separation of the broken pieces and removal of the silicon adhesive is required prior to proceeding with a seamless repair process -- and here where the problem starts. To reverse the repair that was using Dap (or equivalent) often cost more than the repair it self. It can not be removed with solvents, or heat without risking destruction and the only safe remaining option is cutting and grinding. Grinding / cutting removes the silicone adhesives but it also removes some of vessel's material which effect the broken pieces fit requiring more fill, more sanding, more painting, thus, higher cost. Worst case scenario is when the silicone adhesive was used with porous material such as terra-cotta. The silicone adhesive soaks in the material porous surface and the full depth of penetration needs grinding further reducing fit, thus, increasing restoration cost. So, if the item you are repairing is valuable or important, be aware of the above. Back to index
Question 26: How can the repair line disappear after repair?
Answer 26: Matching colors, texture and sheen is the longest and the most difficult part of process to master restoring ceramic, pottery or sculpture. The match must be perfect if it is expected to be invisible. To make a color match perfectly, one must take into account the fact that the color could change as it dries and could change again once cold glaze is applied. The changes are sometimes making the color darker, sometimes lighter and sometimes the hue is modified. The paintings we use are acrylics, oil, enamel or mineral pigments depending on the projects. A good starting point for first time DIY job is to use water base Acrylics. Back to index
Question 27: Where to I go for projects that require gilding?
Answer 27: Sheelin Wilson has been a professional, full-time gilder for nearly 30 years. Trained under Emily Naper at Loughcrew Studios in County Meath, Ireland, Ms. Wilson began her work in America in 1986 as a gilder and, subsequently, chief gilder, at the restoration department of Sotheby’s. Since opening her own gilding studio in New York City in 1988, Ms. Wilson has practiced her art primarily in different market segments. To learn more about Sheelin Wildon's studio, visit: www.sheelinwilson.com
Question 28: How to decide if I or a professional repair my broken vessel?
Answer 28: When piece of pottery is broken, the damage can be extensive and therefore unsalvageable without using a professional restoration studio. Other times, the broken pot is just chipped or with only a couple of breaks and the repair can be handled at home without using a professional restorer. Professional restorers, however, have the capabilities that are often can not be done at home given their expertise, experience and more sophisticated tools, materials and equipment.
If the broken pottery owner decides to conduct the repair at home DIY, then the steps to fixing chips we have generated a step-by-step lesson with only a few required steps and materials. See full article
Question 29: Why often we do not repair items that have decal / transfer painting?
Answer 29: Transfer is a process that can duplicate printed subject on to ceramic and often the printed subject is reduced in size if compared to the original painting yielding extremely fine lines and details that are not duplicatable by hand painting. After hiding the repair lines with background paint (see more), this wider line covers some more of the painting details which we then have to fill in the missing details by hand. Because perfection of the repair paining cannot be achieved (lines are finer then any small brush), we do not take on such projects.
Question 30: Does Lakeside Pottery do Kintsugi repair and if yes, how is it done?
Answer 30: Lakeside Pottery Studio restored wide range of ceramic objects using our Kintsugi process which we have perfected for years. Most Kintsugi art made on carefully selected ceramic vessels made by hand in our pottery studio or purchased from Japan. To see how it is done visit our Kintsugi Process and Kintsugi Gallery pages.
Question 31: What is the difference between Urushi lacquer and epoxy / synthetic resins in a Kintsugi making process?
Answer 31: The bonding composites originally used for Kintsugi to mend the broken parts bonding gold powder is made out of Urushi lacquer is the sap of a tree that grows in East Asia. This sap has high toxicity if touched before hardening creating the same reaction as poison Ivy and dangerous to breath. The epoxy and the gold powder bonding synthetic resins used similarly to the traditional method. However, they are easier to source, safer create stronger bond and better longevity performance. The compound and the metal alloy is developed by Lakeside Pottery after a couple of years effort and cannot be purchased. The purpose of the video below is to show our customers and others how it is done and what is the difference between gold and the gold effect method and not intended to be a tutorial for a DIY.
